July 12 - Gloucestershire

Today was another packed day traveling around the Cotswolds, this time further west in Gloucestershire. We started the morning in Cheltenham, home of the legendary Gustav Holst (composer of The Planets and one of my personal heroes), where we spent over an hour in the Holst Birthplace Museum.

The museum is focused on both his life and his music, and highlights included the piano on which he composed some of his most famous pieces (including Mars and Jupiter) and several original scores. And of course the gift shop was pretty phenomenal (and, like Liverpool, very reasonably priced).

Next was Gloucester Cathedral, which was built around 1100 and is absolutely glorious. Unfortunately, the space was being used for a flower show, so there were people all over the place and most of the architectural features, chapels, and tombs were covered in plants. Nevertheless, it was a worthwhile visit.

One of the highlights of our tour were the cloisters, which were (of course) used in the Harry Potter films. Of particular note is the fan vaulting, invented for this exact structure in the 1350s.

This magnificent vaulted ceiling - about the only thing not overwhelmed by floral designs - was completed in 1242.

And of course where would a cathedral be without an organ? This one, which dominates the east end of the nave, was one of the most impressive instruments we saw on the trip.








We ate lunch in the cathedral café before driving west to the Forest of Dean so Julia could have her picture taken next to a sign (another Harry Potter thing). Thirty seconds later we were driving back along the same road to our last stop of the day: Tewkesbury.

Tewkesbury is a lovely medieval town with a splendid abbey at its centre. As large as Gloucester Cathedral but much quieter (and without the flowers), it was exactly what I pictured a huge old church looking like. It was a cavernous space with some really neat tombs and effigies, and another fabulous organ (one of these days I’m hoping to hear one being played).

We also found a flying buttress, so now you can all see what they actually look like. How exciting!








After a quick search of the town for antique shops we headed back to the cottage, stopping at the Red Lion Pub in Northleach for dinner. It was a strange little place, but my chicken curry was as good as anything I’ve ever tasted.

Tomorrow is our last day at the cottage, and we’re planning on heading west again, this time to Bath and Stonehenge.

GWV